I meant the battery is too little to do any testing.
Pushing 5A into a 12.2V battery that rises to 22V means the battery is Very Tiny.
Or the battery is faulty.
Or both. I have a feeling it is a very small faulty battery.
300W. Is that the calculated electrical output, or power in the water before losses?
300W of electrical power in a 12V system is about 22A. That is a lot of power per day.
I agree with Allan's battery estimate. 220AH would be Great. That is a pair of 6V deep cycle "golf cart" batteries in series.
The battery bank (with good batteries, Not two 110AH boat batteries) would allow operation of a small microwave, a large TV, etc.
With no battery, being limited to 300W peak power would be frustrating to me.
Given the total costs involved, I would at least have a 110AH deep cycle boat battery in the system. With a decent controller, it would spend most of the time at 14.4V, waiting to supply a surge to a larger load.
The hydro could be shut down when nobody is there. 6 days of wear and tear to heat dump resistors seems pointless.
A 10W solar panel can maintain the battery for those 6 days.
If you can get your car close to the generator test?
Start the car, turn on All the lights, and turn the heater fan on high.
Use the car battery for the test. Connect the generator to the battery with heavy cable.
The battery will stay at about 14.2 ~ 14.4V, even when the generator is pushing 25A (>300W) amps into it.
G-