Author Topic: My "Quickie" Turbine  (Read 13558 times)

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ChrisOlson

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My "Quickie" Turbine
« on: June 26, 2010, 03:33:32 AM »
My wife was gone tonight so I didn't have anybody to play with, we had thunderstorms so I couldn't go walleye fishing, and I wasn't about to waste perfectly good battery bank power to watch TV.  Ever since Battlestar Galactica went defunct there's nothing good on TV anyway.  So I went out to the shop with no particular plan in mind.

At 8:00 PM I dragged a bunch of steel out on the floor and fired up the chop saw, torch and welder.  Just before 2:00 AM I took these photos of my new turbine I built.  6 hours worth of work on this one:

She's got 8.5" of offset and 2 degrees up tilt on the mainshaft, 14" of forward lead from the yaw shaft to the prop hub



She's got a rear mount genny-rater:



And the tail bends in the middle like a Jake so it don't hit that rear mount genny-rater.  The tail stops allow it to go 90 degrees to the rotor and straight back from the rotor.  I'm going to use an extension spring pulling on the lever that swings out the side when it furls.  You can't see that real good - I took these photos with my cell phone and the camera in that thing is junk.



I got a couple spare mag rotors all assembled laying around here and this is the stator I'm putting in it:



I got a fully assembled and balanced WindMax 9.4 foot rotor leaning up against the back of the house that I'm going to strap on the front to drive it.

All I got left to do is cut some keyways in the shaft, run to Menards tomorrow morning and pick up a piece of Lexan to make a tail feather for it, and some sort of extension spring that feels about right for the bending tail, finish assembling it and toss it up on a tower.  I should have it flying by mid afternoon tomorrow.  If I can do that this will be the first turbine that I ever went from whacking the first chunk of steel off in the chop saw to flying in under 24 hours, which will be a new record for me   :)
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tecker

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2010, 08:12:50 AM »
 Interesting build Long shaft , rotor to the rear . Niece adaptations . I like the connections out .Wye to get cutin and Delta for power on the fly . More info is needed so post the finish

dlenox

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #2 on: June 26, 2010, 08:47:08 AM »
Chris,

You're a machine!

Me - seems my evenings lately that I've opted out and veggin' in front of the tube.

If you are running all 6 lines down the tower, what size wire you using?

Dan Lenox

tecker

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2010, 10:50:13 AM »
I'm gona butt in and say the length of the run is the absolute factor but if he goes to a disconnect/shutdown next to the tower he could be good one size up copper . On a personnel observation if the wire chokes down the load a little that's not a bad thing. Especially if there's some torque Questions on the blade set.

ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #4 on: June 26, 2010, 12:26:32 PM »
Interesting build Long shaft , rotor to the rear . Niece adaptations . I like the connections out .Wye to get cutin and Delta for power on the fly . More info is needed so post the finish

Hi tecker,

I don't know what info you want for sure.  I got the rotor mounted to it and got the tail on it



The springy bend-in-the-middle tail conflagration seems to work good.  It feels about "right" hand furling on the stand.  It's adjustable, of course.

Then I ran into a minor setback in setting my new record.  The stator I built is for 10" gen rotors.  I thought I had a set of 10" rotors around here with wedge mags on.  Well, I do.  But they're mounted on another turbine head I got hanging on the garage wall.  So I tore it apart and stole the gen rotors out of it.  Turns out the turbine they were on has a 1" shaft, this new one is 1-1/8".  So now I have to chuck those rotors up in the lathe and bore the hubs so they fit this shaft - with the mags on them.  That should be fun.  Then the drive key isn't going to fit so I have to mill the key down or broach the keyway in the gen rotor hubs to fit the 1/4" key.

Dan, this machine is going to be test flown on the tower that I have my 8 footer on.  The 8 is a 12 volt and has a #8/6 generator cable down the tower and #8 solid copper (not stranded) into my shop.  This machine is a 24 volt with a star/delta switchover at ~12 mph wind speed, so the wire will be plenty heavy enough.
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97fishmt

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2010, 01:31:48 PM »
Hi Chris,
I found  moving the blades out smoothed out
the furling.  At least my machine now doesn't
go slam bang and back and forth anymore. 

You do a nice job at showing your ideas and putting
them out there for others to learn what works and what doesn't.

Mike

ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2010, 03:43:14 PM »
Here it is, ready for it's trip up in the air - at the last moment I decided to use the PowerMax rotor on it until I get the furling figured out on this new tail system I made:





And  a photo using the zoom on the camera.  This is one weird looking turbine:



She's putting out 87.4 watts @ 2:35 PM.
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Chris

Beaufort

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2010, 05:45:36 PM »

This machine is a 24 volt with a star/delta switchover at ~12 mph wind speed, so the wire will be plenty heavy enough.


Hey Chris, how are you doing the switchover?  Automatic or manual?  By speed or wind sense? 

Any concerns with gyroscopic forces on the long drive shaft?  The size of your shaft should be fine, as long as there are no stress raisers anywhere along the line but it "looks" like that prop would spin into a solid, non-moving mass in no-time.  At least your tail is a great shock absorber. 

Great stuff, as usual!  Did you set the mag-stator gap down to 0.004" on this one too?  I'm still amazed at that one....must be nice to have a metal lathe to get those tolerances....

defed

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #8 on: June 26, 2010, 05:46:30 PM »
you did more in a day than i did in a year!

i was going to make a shroud over the stator like you did to try to keep snow and ice out of there.

ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #9 on: June 26, 2010, 06:26:24 PM »
Hey Chris, how are you doing the switchover?  Automatic or manual?  By speed or wind sense? 

With a very reliable, simple and completely non-automatic device - a toggle switch on the panel.

Quote
Any concerns with gyroscopic forces on the long drive shaft?

Nope

Quote
Great stuff, as usual!  Did you set the mag-stator gap down to 0.004" on this one too?  I'm still amazed at that one....must be nice to have a metal lathe to get those tolerances....

No, this one is (was) at .960" with the PowerMax rotor on it.  Then I decided ta heck with it - I lowered the tower again and threw the 9.4 foot WindMax rotor on it, plus fabricated a cowling over it so it don't look quite so weird.  But I'm undecided about that - it might even look more weird now.  I left the air gap at .960 but I should've shut it down to about .850 with this rotor on it.  No biggie, it'll run alright, just a little fast when the wind picks up.



The generator was wound for a 13.1 foot rotor so I have to run enough air gap to just about slide a 2x4 between the magnets and stator for these smaller blades.
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bj

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #10 on: June 26, 2010, 08:43:21 PM »
Well Chris, all I can say is that my respect is now awe.

P.S. How much coffee do you drink? ;D
"Even a blind squirrel will find an acorn once in a while"
bj
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ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #11 on: June 26, 2010, 08:51:38 PM »
P.S. How much coffee do you drink? ;D

LOL!  It was blazing hot here yesterday and last nigh,t and humid.  The shop floor was sweating, and even with the doors open in the shop it was barely tolerable working.  Much better working than trying to sleep though (we don't have air conditioning in our house).

I did take one "coffee break" - I jumped on my little moped and rode into town to cool off about dark.  My moped has a compartment under the seat that will hold a full grocery bag.  I filled that compartment up with all the bottles of Gatorade I could carry in my arms - and had it all drank by the time I got that turbine done last night.  But I don't think 2 gallons of Gatorade replaced the water I lost in sweat though.......
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SparWeb

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #12 on: June 27, 2010, 12:30:40 AM »
Quote:Beaufort              Any concerns with gyroscopic forces on the long drive shaft?

Quote: Chris                Nope


...Are you sure?   :-\

All of my motor conversions seem to have 1-1/8" shafts and when I work out the loads and stress on the shaft...  Not a large safety factor.  Since it's short I don't worry about deformation, but yours is 12" long...   A few % strain will magnify over those 12" to make for a rather large tip displacement. 

Just food for thought.
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ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #13 on: June 27, 2010, 01:25:46 AM »
All of my motor conversions seem to have 1-1/8" shafts and when I work out the loads and stress on the shaft...  Not a large safety factor.  Since it's short I don't worry about deformation, but yours is 12" long...   A few % strain will magnify over those 12" to make for a rather large tip displacement. 

That shaft is 21" long.  It's got 4" stubs sticking out both ends of the bearings.

You could take the shaft out of that turbine, clamp it in the vice so 12" is sticking out, hang 1,600 lbs of tractor weights on it, then beat on the tractor weights with a 10 lb maul and you can't bend that shaft.

Further, the same identical shaft material is used in agricultural augers to drive them.  That 1-1/8" shaft is driven by a Durst angle box at the bottom and runs all the way to the top of a 70 foot 10" auger with a support bearing every 8 feet.  That shaft only turns at 540 rpm and it takes 150 PTO horsepower to run that auger at full load.  At the top end of the auger, at the last bearing, there's a 6" stub sticking out and it drives the auger flite shaft with a dual #80H drive chain.  You plug that auger and it will blow that drive chain all to smitheens and you'd better duck for cover when it blows the chaincase off because there's chrome pins, rollers and busted chain links flying like somebody touched of a 12 gauge with a round of double awt Buck.  You can apply all the calculations to it you want, and you still won't bend, twist off, or break that 70 foot long driveshaft.

So let's just say that I'm not too worried about it.
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ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #14 on: June 27, 2010, 02:19:42 AM »
All of my motor conversions seem to have 1-1/8" shafts and when I work out the loads and stress on the shaft...

Yeah, and you put a double vee pulley on that motor and tighten up the belts so they're fiddle string tight, then throw the switch and you already got more forces on that shaft than a 10 foot wind turbine rotor can impose on it.

Here's the thing when you build something; almost 30 years ago when I was a wet behind the ears apprentice mechanical engineer, fresh out of school, I went to work for Cummins.  I could calculate anything out right to the "tee".  Turn me loose on it, and I'll do all the calculations faster than any engineer with 20 years of experience, and I'll fix it.

Well, the first week I was there, a wise old project engineer with years in the business sat me down and said, "Son, you can sit here doing calculations all day and arrive at how you SHOULD do it.  Then you can go out there in that shop and actually build it and arrive at how you CAN do it.  The two are rarely the same."

That lesson is reflected in everything I've ever designed and built since.
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ruddycrazy

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #15 on: June 27, 2010, 05:14:37 AM »


Well, the first week I was there, a wise old project engineer with years in the business sat me down and said, "Son, you can sit here doing calculations all day and arrive at how you SHOULD do it.  Then you can go out there in that shop and actually build it and arrive at how you CAN do it.  The two are rarely the same."

That lesson is reflected in everything I've ever designed and built since.
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G'day Chris,
                The first day I started a job repairing gearbox's, I had a 5 stage  planetary gearbox to strip and no drawing or anything. So the thinking part went out the window and I just pulled the thing apart remembering in my head how it should go back together. Well 400 gearbox's later and 90% with no drawings I still do it the same way. The same when I want to make something, I sit and think about it over a slab of beers, wake up next morning and over a few caffines, I'm up the shed making it.   I've always had the philosophy ' nothing is impossible just some things take more thought'
               I suppose that's why I only did 3 years on my engineering degree after I finished my apprenticeship as I worked out the cash difference wasn't that much especially working on shutdowns. Later in life I did a decade on mine sites so this job of mine repairing gearbox's  gets me off the farm and away from the family daily and besides the goodies I get from work are ideal for a guy into RE.

             Back on topic, my idea for my first dual axial flux setup is of a similar nature only I'm thinking of using a full complement bearing as the front bearing and a dual tapered bearing for the rear. The front bearing will take all radial load where the dual tapered bearings will take anything my 4 metre blades will throw at it. The hub will be machined out of solid bar with a 3/4" thick disc welded then machined for the magnet rotors. When I get around to making it I'll just sketch it full size from memory then start making it.

Cheers Bryan

ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #16 on: June 27, 2010, 12:36:34 PM »
             Back on topic, my idea for my first dual axial flux setup is of a similar nature only I'm thinking of using a full complement bearing as the front bearing and a dual tapered bearing for the rear.

That would work too.  You do have to watch how many bearings you get running in races on these small turbines to keep the drag down.  I've had pretty good luck with Fafnir self-aligning ball bearings.  A pair of ball bearings take both axial and radial loads really well and I use pre-lube bearings instead of greaseable ones because they "break in" after the first few hours of running time and run really nice and free after that.  In probably 15,000 hours of run time on a couple of my turbines I've never had one fail.

The nice thing about ball bearings is that when they do fail they don't just suddenly fall apart and end up with the gen rotors hitting the stator like a tapered roller bearing will.  You'll hear the noise in the tower from the failing bearing long before the balls leave it and they typically just "pile up" and seize in the final moments of their life.  If you put enough power to them to keep them turning you can finish grinding up the dry balls and end up race against race.  But they give fair warning long before that happens.  Ball bearings have been used in electric motors for years under much more strenuous conditions than a wind turbine can apply to them.

That being said, I have to modify my new tail setup I'm experimenting with on this turbine.  We had one thunderstorm go thru last night with gusts to 35 and it worked OK.  Then we had another cell go thru with gusts over 65 mph.  I left the turbine running and it did work, but it put out a little more power than I wanted and the spring arrangement on the tail isn't quite right.  I got the spring pulling on the lever straight-on with the tail straight behind the rotor and it furls real easy at first, then takes progressively more pressure to force the tail into the furled position.

I'm going to make a bracket that offsets the spring to the side with the tail at rest so when the tail starts to move it applies a more constant pressure and doesn't quite reach over-center fully furled, with just enough spring pressure applied to return the tail back to rest.  I thought about letting it go slightly over-center so the tail stays furled once it gets there, and requires a small side gust to get it to pop back over-center and go to rest again.  I'll have to play with that a little bit.

What I want to achieve with this tail is a machine that doesn't partially furl.  I want it to reach full rated power with the tail straight back from the rotor and then "break away" and fully furl.  That's going to require a setup with a constant rate pull on the lever.

Otherwise I was fairly happy with the way this tail conflagration works.
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tecker

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #17 on: June 27, 2010, 01:26:22 PM »

Just install a coil that picks up the rotor speed maybe ten small mags on the rotor .Then choke it down to get the desired speed to switch in some Dpdt relays  or something that can take some possible static .
Coil diode and a cap that stays loaded at that speed .

ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #18 on: June 27, 2010, 04:30:29 PM »
Just install a coil that picks up the rotor speed maybe ten small mags on the rotor .Then choke it down to get the desired speed to switch in some Dpdt relays  or something that can take some possible static .
Coil diode and a cap that stays loaded at that speed .

That would work for sure.  Right now I'm not as concerned about coming up with an automatic star/delta switch as I am getting this new tail arrangement to work right.  I had this thing pushing 1.2 kW in 65 mph wind about 2:00 AM this morning, and that's a bit much.

I determined it was because I was pulling on the lever wrong on the "flipper".  I was pulling on it straight so the spring got progressively stretched longer the more it furled.  And consequently it took higher and higher winds to push it into full furl.  So I changed that with this new experimental setup:



Now it goes from straight back to 10-15 degrees fairly easily and then my digital fish scale goes to 14 lbs of pull to bring the tail around and it stays right at 14-15 lbs all the way to fully furled.  We got some thunderstorms brewing on the horizon and the wind is already blowing at 20 mph so maybe in a couple more hours I can try it again in high winds and see what it does.  If this works, then I'll weld a permanent bracket on the fixed tail boom with an eyebolt and adjuster.

I got a Hillman #175 spring on it now - .072 wire diameter, 3.18 lbs/inch of extension, max load 15.04 lbs.  I'm finding out it takes a lot less spring to set the furling right with this setup than it did with my spring loaded cylinder setup.

As always, this is experimental stuff performed by a crazy nut and it is not recommended to try this at home (unless you're willing to blow your turbine apart if it don't work).
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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #19 on: June 27, 2010, 04:48:47 PM »
Quote
You could take the shaft out of that turbine, clamp it in the vice so 12" is sticking out, hang 1,600 lbs of tractor weights on it, then beat on the tractor weights with a 10 lb maul and you can't bend that shaft.... So let's just say that I'm not too worried about it.

It's rather strange, then, that when I use a hydraulic press to bend a bar of steel, the load where it permanently bends is roughly equal to the load I expect when I use "calculations".

Torque, on this scale is hardly something to worry about - I hope you didn't misunderstand me.

I'm talking about gyroscopic moment.  I'm talking about 500 foot pounds of prying force laterally on the rotor under the critical yawing condition, and your steel shaft that will take a permanent set only a bit more than that, depending on its temper and composition.

No one believes the theory except the one who developed it. Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.
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Beaufort

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #20 on: June 27, 2010, 05:53:52 PM »

Torque, on this scale is hardly something to worry about........
.....I'm talking about gyroscopic moment.


Not to mention cyclic fatigue and any funny harmonics from the blades with the longer moment arm.  Those calculations are beyond me..the true test would be running to see what happens.

Hey Chris, we're not trying to poke holes here but merely observing and making some engineering conjecture (which is all it really is; you've got a great site there to see what actually happens).  You're not only doing some of the best work on this site, but also have the patience to publish it all (which is something I need to get better at).  Don't take the observations too critically; it's natural to be concerned about something that looks "different", but that's also what pushes things ahead and we'll all learn together.

There is an OEM that I saw at one of the Windpower shows with a 10-20 kW scale machine that has this exact same arrangement with the prop out front.  It was built like a tank and they've installed dozens.  They said there are certainly advantages to putting the alternator so close to the yaw and balancing it with the prop on the other side of the tower.  They were using a very large axial flux on that thing and using the casting as a huge heat sink (which got plenty of cooling wind because it was away from the prop slipstream). 

ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #21 on: June 27, 2010, 06:57:04 PM »
Not to mention cyclic fatigue and any funny harmonics from the blades with the longer moment arm.  Those calculations are beyond me..the true test would be running to see what happens.

I can appreciate your questions.  But, trust me, the shaft will be fine.  I've run this stuff in a lot more severe duty applications than wind turbines.  4140 CRMO is used to make crankshafts, camshafts, agricultural equipment shafts, gearbox shafts, axle shafts, and in my case, turbine shafts.  The forged bar stock that I get to build new combine shafts and whatnot where a bearing failed and chewed the shaft up or similar is stress relieved and it will take billions of torsional vibration and deflection cycles without failure.  Steven tried to compare it with his electric motor shafts and there is no comparison.

I got 4140 hex shaft material that I use to build new rock trap and feeder house shafts in combines and that stuff will wear wear where it drives a rock trap beater or rear feeder house sprocket on the hexes.  But I've yet to ever break one.  I'll venture a bet that my turbine shaft is heavier than than your axle shafts in the rear end of you compact pickup truck (assuming you drive one) and it's the same material.  So if you're really worried about my turbine shaft, then you'd better not hit any pot holes with your compact pickup.

Let's leave at this on this shaft ordeal - I'll be the first to post photos of my broken turbine shaft.  But don't hold your breath waiting for them.

Quote
There is an OEM that I saw at one of the Windpower shows with a 10-20 kW scale machine that has this exact same arrangement with the prop out front.  It was built like a tank and they've installed dozens.  They said there are certainly advantages to putting the alternator so close to the yaw and balancing it with the prop on the other side of the tower.  They were using a very large axial flux on that thing and using the casting as a huge heat sink (which got plenty of cooling wind because it was away from the prop slipstream). 

I think I got the tail thing figured out on this turbine now.  We just had a t-storm cell go thru and I didn't get the winds I was expecting to test it.  But it did furl all the way and topped out at about 25 amps.  My cheapie anemometer recorded a peak wind gust of only 33 mph but it appeared to work OK.  I might have to think about it for a bit because the way I got it set up now, it furls pretty sudden like and looks like it slams the tail against the stop pretty good.  A bit more progressive, but not as much as I had it before, will probably be better.

So it's drop the tower, change the angle of the spring bracket again to make it more progressive, and hope for another storm cell to see if it works.  When I finally arrive at the right angle on the thing, then I can make a permanent bracket and weld it on there.

I built one other turbine once that had a rear mount generator on it.  This is a photo of the thing:


That turbine would not steer.  It could be running and then a side gust hit it that would fold the tail right up and it would very slowly turn and swing back into the wind.  But the generator on that one was really heavy - the gen alone weighed over 50 lbs - it only had 5" of offset, and the generator hung out the back too far.  This new one I built seems to steer really nice and I paid attention to getting the generator up as close to the yaw shaft as it would fit.  Plus this one has 10" x 1/4" rotors in it instead of 14" x 3/8".  You get two chunks of 3/8" steel whirling at 500 rpm and you got two 14" diameter flywheels hanging on there.

So I'm pleased with this "quickie turbine" that I built.  If it stays below 30 amps in really strong winds now, and I can figure out an arrangement to dampen the tail a bit, I think she's going to work.
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fabricator

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #22 on: June 27, 2010, 07:53:30 PM »
Quote
You could take the shaft out of that turbine, clamp it in the vice so 12" is sticking out, hang 1,600 lbs of tractor weights on it, then beat on the tractor weights with a 10 lb maul and you can't bend that shaft.... So let's just say that I'm not too worried about it.

It's rather strange, then, that when I use a hydraulic press to bend a bar of steel, the load where it permanently bends is roughly equal to the load I expect when I use "calculations".

Torque, on this scale is hardly something to worry about - I hope you didn't misunderstand me.

I'm talking about gyroscopic moment.  I'm talking about 500 foot pounds of prying force laterally on the rotor under the critical yawing condition, and your steel shaft that will take a permanent set only a bit more than that, depending on its temper and composition.



Bending a bar with dies in a press is completely different than having that same bar spinning at 200 rpms with no forming dies creating weak point for a bend.
I aint skeerd of nuthin.......Holy Crap! What was that!!!!!
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ChrisOlson

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #23 on: June 27, 2010, 08:32:09 PM »
Bending a bar with dies in a press is completely different than having that same bar spinning at 200 rpms with no forming dies creating weak point for a bend.

Right.  I don't think Steven caught on here and that's easy to do if you get too bogged down in theory.  I don't wish to get bogged down over this shaft ordeal.  So I'll run it by again and then feel free to do all the calculations you want on it.

You have a 1.125" shaft with a support bearing at the end of it and a 6" stub sticking out past that support bearing.  The next support bearing down the shaft is 8 feet away.  On the end of that 6" stub is a 48 tooth # 80 dual sprocket.  You're feeding ~150 honest dynamometer hp into that shaft @ 540 rpm (that's 1,458 lb-ft of torque) and the radius on that sprocket is roughly 7 inches.

Feel free to do all the calculations you want on that one and explain to me why it's going to fail.  And then I'll explain that that shaft does that for hours on end, year after year, sometimes starting under full load, and they never break.  You'll break the shear pin (which is always drilled out and replaced with the next size bigger the first time it breaks on a new machine), twist off u-joints in the driveline, blow chains, strip teeth off the sprockets, and twist off fliting in the auger.  But that long spindly driveshaft that drives it, supported only every 8 feet up the tube, survives.  And it's a dang good thing too because when a bearing goes out on that shaft it's a genuine project to replace it.  Typically, one bearing will go out and the seal and pieces of the bearing cage come looping down the shaft to the next bearing inline.  Then shortly after that the balls turn to dust  - and if the shaft don't shake too bad and go into wild gyrations we just keep on runnin' 'er.  If you got two bearings out then it makes it more worthwhile to pull that shaft off to change bearings    :)
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Chris

RP

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #24 on: June 27, 2010, 08:59:48 PM »
So I'm pleased with this "quickie turbine" that I built.  If it stays below 30 amps in really strong winds now, and I can figure out an arrangement to dampen the tail a bit, I think she's going to work.

Chris,

I'm a little worried about that extension spring.  In the long run compression springs fair better because they don't have the point contact stress issues on the hook ends.  If you really want to keep the extension design I'd suggest using pins at the end with a similar diameter as the wire loop ends. 

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #25 on: June 27, 2010, 09:10:38 PM »
I'm a little worried about that extension spring.  In the long run compression springs fair better because they don't have the point contact stress issues on the hook ends.  If you really want to keep the extension design I'd suggest using pins at the end with a similar diameter as the wire loop ends. 

Well, two things here.  One, it's temporary until I get the thing tuned in.  Once I get it all adjusted right, then I'll build the final unit.

Second, so what if the spring does break?  It's not going to hurt anything unless it boings off and hits me in the head.  All it will do is that the tail will go into the furled position and stay there.  Replace the spring and I'm back in business.  Nothing's going to burn up, nothing catastrophic will happen.
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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #26 on: June 27, 2010, 10:47:57 PM »
Here's my summary of this turbine design for guys that are interested in such things.........

The rear mount generator is nice to work on - changing stators, setting air gap, whatever.  I don't know what it does for actual performance of the machine - I think nothing really.  It is very well balanced on the yaw shaft, however, with pretty equal weight distribution front to back.

The tail was somewhat problematic but I got that fixed.  In strong thunderstorm winds last night it was set way too stiff and the machine was pushing over 40 amps.  The generator is wound for 13 foot blades so that's not too much for the generator but it's too much for the blades that are on it, meaning it wasn't furling right.  It was dark, rain was pouring down, it was 2:00 in the morning - not the time to fix it.

We had decent winds here today with some gusts over 30 and I had the tower up and down at least six times making adjustments.  I was very happy with the final setup and did manage to get a little video of the thing running.  I reset my recording anemometer before I went out to take the video and it recorded a peak wind speed of 19.8 mph during the couple minutes I was filming the turbine.  So near as I can determine it starts to furl at right around 20 mph now.  The furling action appears to be much smoother with the combination of spring pressure and angle that I have on it now.  Here's the video I took:
http://www.youtube.com/user/OlsonFarms#p/u/5/KgzIoG6Aqu4

I'll fly the machine this way until we get some decent wind again to see where it peaks at.  If I'm satisfied with it I'll lower the tower one final time measure everything up I did (angles, spring pressure, force on the tail to furl it, etc.., record that information, and build a decent spring setup for it.  Once I know that information I can build another one and duplicate it, plus have a starting point to adjust it in the future.
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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #27 on: June 28, 2010, 08:35:58 AM »
It seems to me from the video the tail just needs to be wider and out of the center blade wash . Make it too big and cut it down and then match it with something of similar weight and size for finish.

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #28 on: June 28, 2010, 08:45:10 AM »

   Chris--in the video the furling appears very smooth.  And as you say, if the spring breaks, so what?
   As usual, thanks for the brain candy.  Nice build.
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bj
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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #29 on: June 28, 2010, 11:20:31 AM »

Good job Chris.

Could you please post more pictures of the hub you are using ?

Specially a detail of how it attached to the shaft.

Thanks,

Octavio
http://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=opo Check my apps aFoil and aFoilSim on android market.

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #30 on: June 28, 2010, 11:54:41 AM »
Could you please post more pictures of the hub you are using ?

Unfortunately, I do not have any pictures with that detail in them and the machines are on the tower so it's hard to take any right now.  But I'll try to describe it:

The propeller flange is a flat 1/4" thick piece of steel that I have waterjet cut at a local machine shop.  It has a .376" hole in the middle of it.  The shaft has a hole in the end of it tapped 3/8" NF.  The shaft is keyed.  When I build the hub I machine the end of the shaft so it's perfectly true, slide the keyed sleeve onto the shaft, bolt the flange to the end of the shaft, slide the sleeve up to the hub and tack it four places.  Then I run it up in the lathe to check runout, adjust it if necessary, and finish welding it.  Then make a final check on runout to make sure it runs true.

To remove or install it requires loosening or tightening the two set screws in the sleeve and removing or torquing the bolt that screws into the end of the shaft.  After it runs for awhile, even assembling it with never-seize compound, the sleeve takes a "set" to the shaft and you can't get it off.  So on the last two flanges I had built I drilled puller holes so I can attach a puller to it to pull it from the shaft.  To get it off after it takes a "set", I have to back the center bolt out about a 1/2" so the puller has something to push on, then screw three bolts into the puller holes and break it loose.  Since I've done that I haven't had any more problems getting a prop flange off anymore.

The first few turbines I built this way, I ended up beating the living snot out of that prop flange with an air hammer to get them off after they had been on there for six months.
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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #31 on: June 28, 2010, 12:55:30 PM »

Thank you Chris, That was an excellent description.

Octavio
http://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=opo Check my apps aFoil and aFoilSim on android market.

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Re: My "Quickie" Turbine
« Reply #32 on: June 28, 2010, 01:26:01 PM »
Thank you Chris, That was an excellent description.

You're welcome.  There is one other detail I should mention in case somebody tries to build a turbine of this design someday -----

The sleeves I get come with two allen head set screws in them.  I remove those allen screws and use square head cup point set screws instead.  Those allen screws will also take a "set" with time and just strip out when you try to loosen them.  The square head set screws are easier to get loose later on the turbine's life.

My generator rotors are mounted to the shaft with the same method except that they're simply held in place by the set screws.  Air gap is set by pulling the outer rotor and changing shims between the two rotors.  There's no adjusting rotor runout with nuts or similar, aka a turbine built on a boat trailer spindle and hub.  Once you build the rotors true, you simply slide them on the shaft and they run true with no adjustment required other than changing shims for air gap.

When I build one of these machines I machine a nominal spacer to set the minimum air gap, then I use .020" thick Dana 44 pinion bearing preload shims to set the air gap wider than nominal.

Building a machine of this design requires that you either have or have access to a machine shop.  It requires machining pieces to close tolerances, but once you have those pieces made, assembly and adjustment is a snap.  The method of using a trailer spindle and hub with everything stacked on redi-rod, I think, came about because it's easy to do without much machine work.  I don't really care for that design.  I built one once to try it and when I got it done the word "crude" came to mind.  Too much chance for nuts coming loose in the stack, they're hard to adjust, and the bearings are problematic - people are running them without seals and all sorts of things.  I looked at it and decided that if utility scale machines were built using front spindles and hubs off a Kenworth they probably wouldn't last very long.   So I designed a better machine.
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Chris