Laminated wood are generally more resistant than a plain pieces of wood. Properly done, it solves most warping problems and increases the rigidity in at least one direction.
For example, all good quality wooden hockey stick are made of thin laminate.
Several glue type can be use for that. I use some Gorilla RED glue (actually the Lepage Brand in Canada) in the past and it worked fine (for structural laminate but never build blade with it). The bound is solid and resist humidity (and water) very well.
Here I suggest you follow this link for more information on glue type:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Exterior_glues.html
You can pre-shape the wood before laminating it. However, don't forget that most glue need clamping for several minutes if not hours. Therefore, the shape must be stable when the pressure (often 50 to 60 pounds) is applied with the clamp.
Pretty smooth (like circular saw cut) is not always enough with thin laminate, especially with PVA glue type. For thin wood (1/4 inch thick), you can always try to eliminate all void by clamping the work every few inches, doing only a few layers at the time. However, for 1/2 to 1" thick ash... Well, this will not work very well. In this case, try to select glue that has some "GAP" filling ability. But the GAP filling ability of the glue must be use sparingly if at all.
Finally, if your wood clamps are not strong enough to produce the 6" wide laminate in a single operation (too much GAP to prevent, the wood is not strait, etc...)... You can do it in several operations. However, if you don't have a planner to straiten the edge of the "glued pieces", you need to take a lot of extra precaution in clamping. You need to prevent the formation of a WAVE pattern, therefore you need to clamp you work against a solid strait edge.
Warning: I never build blade -- but I did many structural laminate
